Tamarack Lookout @ Umatilla National Forest

This weekend, my wife and I rented one of the fire lookouts in the Umatilla National Forest. It’s a neat program that they do up here in the Pacific Northwest where when it isn’t fire season, you can reserve their facilities for camping. We had been looking into it for a couple of years, but things do tend to fill up early. In order to reserve one of the dog friendly locations, we booked in May for an October date!

The location we selected was the Tamarack Lookout out in the Umatilla National Forest. One of the prime motivators for this location was that it was dog friendly and so we could bring our adopted greyhound, Gigi, with us. So we took Friday off work, loaded up the Subaru, and set off on our adventure!

Getting to the lookout was the first bit of fun.  After you reach Heppner (pretty much the last place with services), you drive another 40 miles on the road, before turning into the tangle that were the National Forest Roads.  These were fun, but unpaved and mostly a single lane.  When you saw the large cloud of dust that indicated someone was coming the other direction, you would need to start looking for a place where you could safely pass.  The last mile or so up to the cabin was particularly fun, and fully explained why they strongly recommended high-clearance vehicles.

The rear winshield after arriving at the lookout. You can imagine how it looked on the way back, with double the dirt!

 Once there, the Tamarack Lookout consisted of a single room cabin (that originally was a storage building, but was converted into housing when the original cabin burned in 1966) and a fire lookout.  Unfortunately, the trap door into the very top of the fire lookout was locked, but that didn’t stop me from climbing up as far as I could to take a peek.  The cabin had no electricity or running water, but it did have a large propane tank as well as a propane refrigerator, stove, and lights.  The bathroom was a public pit toilet located about 50 feet from the cabin.

The cabin. You can see the double-set of bunkbeds through the window.

The cabin had been recently maintained, and apparently they had just finished when we arrived.  It was clean and they had clearly been working on updating the interior lights, as there were several sets of additional ceramic burners and tie-on mantles out when we got there.  Additionally, the smoke and CO2 detectors had all been removed, and were sitting on the table for us.  I was glad my wife had packed extra batteries, as the batteries were either missing, or dead.  We had read a report that there were previously a major problem with pack rats in the ceiling of the cabin; there were still some critters up there, but after they managed to go out around dusk (making lots of noice and exciting us more than the dog) things would quiet down for the night. 

The tower. It's windy up there!

I guess the closest thing to an “issue” that we had was that it wasn’t nearly as secluded as we thought it would be.  While it is out by itself, this particular section of the national forest is open to both hunting and all sorts of off-road vehicle activity.  While we had the cabin all to ourselves and there was no one else camping nearby, the public toilet attracted more traffic than I expected on the small access road.  I’m probably being overly sensitive, since there were maybe 12 vehicles that went by the entire weekend — but since the cabin lacked curtains, it made you hurry as you were changing or getting ready for bed.

We really enjoyed the views out over the John Day river, and when it was clear Friday night, the stars were absolutely phenomenal!  While it is probably a little too far away to justify going back, I’m very glad we were able to visit once!

Shooting star towards the tail of the milky way...

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Off-site backups…

I have a fairly robust backup solution setup here, performing nightly backups on all of the machines here in my house.  Each of the laptops, desktops and servers gets backed up separately and everything ends up on a multi-terabyte RAID5 disk array.  I would need to lose at least three hard drives (one on the host machine and two on the RAID array) before I actually lost any data.

However, in order for the network portion of the network-attached storage to be efficient I have most of the machines cabled to a full-duplex gigabit switch.  This helps speed the backups along, but it also means that most of my hosts are co-located with my backup device.  In the case of theft or natural disaster, anything that affected my server would likely impact the backup server sitting right next to it.

So, I’ve been looking into setting up some sort of secure off-site storage.  There seems to be no shortage of options out there — Amazon S3, ReadyNAS Vault, etc.  Even my ISP offers a network backup solution.  Unfortunately, I’m looking to keep around 1.5TB of data out there, and much of it is too sensitive to trust to “the cloud”.  I have yet to find a network storage solution that works for that amount of disk space in an even halfway affordable manner.  1.5 TB on the cheapest tier of S3 would still run almost $115/month. 

The basic requirements that I am looking for are:

  • Ability to store 1.5TB of data in a cost effective manner.  I am willing to spend up to $25/month or so, but not more than that.  Mostly because with that $300/year, I can buy two giant hard drives, perform two full backups of everything and give the drives to friends for safekeeping.
  • Ability to encrypt the data prior to storage.  Because uploading the data somewhere outside of my control makes me nervous, I require that the data stored on the remote host be useless to anyone without the decryption key.  Unfortunately, encrypted files don’t play well with incremental backups, so it will require specific encryption support.
  • Since the off-site backup will only be used in truly dire circumstances, I don’t require that it be particularly fast or convenient to access.  I’ll still do nightly backups, but the off-site backup will only be updated weekly or monthly.
  • Since I am backing up a lot of data, I’ll need to be able to restore a lot of data.  Whatever is used should support reliable, bulk restore of data.

I have yet to find anything that meets all of my requirements, but I did find a friend looking for similar off-site storage.  Because we both have extra storage space, we agreed to share backups to one another’s server.  I was able to setup duplicity on my server, and am now able to reliably backup and restore encrypted files.  Finally, I wrote a couple of scripts to automate the backup and restore process.  It appears that I’ve found a solution that will mostly work for me, at no cost!

As always, there is a catch.  While I have a pretty solid downlink provided by Qwest (20 Mbps), my uplink speed is a paltry 896 kbps.  This means that in a perfect world where I am getting full utilization and there is no other traffic, my 1.5TB of data would upload in… *drumroll* 166 days!  *sigh*  It looks like shipping a hard drive every six months is going to be just as fast, if not faster…

Update 9/6/2011 – Just over a month and I have been transferring almost the entire time.  I’ve had to throttle the output of scp based off of the time-of-day so I wouldn’t saturate my uplink; I’m averaging around 50% uplink utilization for that time.  I’m currently working on getting all of the photos transferred – 136G of 229G so far.

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Traveller’s bill of rights…

I’ve been travelling a lot for my job over the last three years, and I have to say, I’m baffled how the entire travel industry can continue to mislead and mistreat their customers. I truly believe that if some company were to treat their customers as people rather than cattle, that they would quickly establish a strong following.

- Prices should be disclosed up front. The *entire* price, including taxes, luggage fees, upgrade fees, etc. Airlines, now that they all seem to charge for baggage, snacks and drinks, are awful at this. However, rental cars, hotels and other providers go out of their way to hide the true price until you have purchased. Prior to purchase, you should know what it will cost, how much room you will have, what is included, and what is available for an additional (disclosed) cost.  Taxes, in particular, should be disclosed up front as they are often the largest “hidden” cost.

- I understand the upsell, but lately, this seems to have gone over the top. Airlines use a credit card for check-in, and then offer first class upgrades for only $75/leg right there at the kiosk. Rental car companies are drilled to offer you a larger car (just $5/day!), gas (pre-pay for a full tank, no matter how much is left!) and then try to scare you into the insurance. I sometimes wonder (usually when a rental car line snakes around the room but only one of the six employees there are servicing customers) if they are intentional inefficient in order to sell you on their MVP/gold/frequent traveler program.

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John Day Fossil Beds National Monument: Painted Hills Unit

Over the Memorial Day weekend, I drove out to the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument: Painted Hills Unit — aka, the Painted Hills outside of Mitchell, OR.

Absolutely beautiful place, even though I was sprinkled on a little bit.  It’s a fairly unique section of high-clay soil amongst a predominantly volcanic area.  The impurities in the clay give it some very striking colors, colors that change based upon the moisture content.  Because of the hard-packed clay, very little is able to grow on the hills, giving them a very barren look.

A few of my favorites…

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Bald Eagles at Ankeny NWR…

The bald eagles down at Ankeny NWR seem to be doing pretty well this year!  Here you can see this lovely convocation of eagles – 5 juveniles (#2 through #6), and 2 adults (#1 and #7)! 

Seven Bald Eagles over Pintail Marsh, Ankeny NWR

Seven Bald Eagles over Pintail Marsh, Ankeny NWR

Given the way that the juveniles were playing with one another, I’d love to think that this was a particularly successful spring for the lucky couple, but from what I’m reading, it sounds like two eggs is the norm for bald eagles.  Having five offspring seems like a bit of a stretch, unless some of the juveniles are second season and are still hanging around with the parents.

Closer view of the adult female with two immature bald eagles.

Closer view of the adult female with two immature bald eagles.

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American Bittern

OK, so it’s not a raptor (I’ll get back to those eventually — I really enjoy those birds) but I got a pleasant surprise today down at Ankeny.  I’ve been looking for a bittern for over a year now, without success.  They have remarkable camoflage, and I’m sure there were days where I was there with them, but never did find one.  Today, on the other hand, I just got lucky.  As I was starting to drive home, one flew over Buena Vista Road and landed in the drainage ditch, right in front of the car.  Conveniently, there was a turn-out right there, and so I got proof!

It isn’t a great picture, but I’ll take it for a handheld shot out the passenger window of a car, on a rainy day.

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Osprey

Osprey in flight... good thing I'm not a fish.

The osprey is an impressive bird, usually found around water.  Their native range is enormous, spanning North America, South America, Europe, Asia and Africa.  That said, they aren’t a particularly common bird, with only about 460,000 wordwide.  Good thing there are several nests around this area — I know of at least three in a 10 mile stretch of the Willamette River.

Osprey hovering over Ankeny NWR

One of the things I really like about the Osprey is that it will occasionally “hover” in the air searching for prey.  I know it isn’t the only bird to display this behavior, but I’m always impressed when I see it from a bird this size.

Osprey in nest, Willamette Mission State Park

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Burrowing Owl

Last week I was in Southern California, and went on an excursion with a friend to the airport in Hemet.  We were looking for the burrowing owls that nest just off the runway.  I really thought that was an exaggeration, but lo and behold, there they were — right next to the tarmac.  They didn’t seem to mind the airplanes at all; case in point, this photo (a poor photo, admittedly) shows one of two burrows that we saw up against the taxi lights.

There was a "parliament" of owls, but the other two don't appear in this photo.

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Juvenile Bald Eagle

Well, I’ve covered the American Kestrel and Turkey Vulture, so I might as well stick with the raptor theme.  This particular bird is a juvenile Bald Eagle that was hanging out over Pintail Marsh at Ankeny NWR this January.  Based on the partial white hood and the darker bill, this eagle looks to be between the seond and third plumage, so it’s probably close to 3 years old.  When born, Bald Eagles are almost uniformly dark in color.  As they age and molt, the head and tail will turn white, and the initially dark bill will turn yellow.  It takes about about 4 years for the bird to lose all the dark feathers in the head and tail and for the bill to be uniform yellow.

A group of eagles can be an “aerie”, “convocation”, “jubilee”, “soar” or “tower”.

In the background, you can see a flock of Canada Geese leaving the area.  It’s probably smart of them; during the winter, when fish are not as available, Bald Eagles often turn to other birds for their meals.

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Turkey Vulture

I call it wildlife photography, but the majority of it, I think will be birds.  Partly, this is due to the fact that birds are colorful and diverse; I also believe that they are just about the only wildlife that we have left in our developed areas.  Roads, housing tracts and non-contiguous habitat don’t seem to impact them the way they do land-based animals.

My favorite name for a group of vultures is a "wake".

Today’s subject is a striking bird, although I doubt too many people find them to be beautiful.  The turkey vulture is one of the few birds of prey that use their sense of smell to locate prey — one look at those nostrils and you can see how!    They seek out mercaptan, a gas that is produced by the start of decay (and added to natural gas so that you’ll be sure to detect a leak).  The featherless head comes in handy when they need to stick their heads into a putrefying carcass to locate anything that remains edible; feathers could get caught and would quickly become fouled while eating.  The “turkey” part of their name originates with their resemblance to the wild turkey, but I have a hard time reconciling the effortless soaring of the turkey vulture with anything that relates to the game bird.  This particular bird is a Western Turkey Vulture that was searching the fields of Baskett Slough NWR.

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